To Apollo Bay

Quite a long drive back along the Coast Road further east of Johanna for some intended R&R in the small resort town of Apollo Bay, which was indeed a little "resorty" and our apartment whilst technically overlooking the sea was bit naff. The place was initially quieter than we had expected but it livened up when a large funfair for their annual carnival opened up the following night and it was noisy in the early evening from there and the adjoining " party " apartment but quiet by 11pm.

we did not go on this...

We just enjoyed the beach, swimming and bodyboarding, relaxed, BBQ'd  on our balcony, planned Tasmania, and slept!. Good, simple restaurants and music bars kept us entertained. Plans to kayak to some seals, beach pilates and snorkelling all came to naught for one reason for another.

A gorgeous beach along the bay, which we walked and walked.

We did manage to leave the seaside for a Koala hunt : we had yet to see one and were feeling deprived. We enjoyed the drive up the coast to Lorne, then turned up inland in to the hills  where we had read that koalas resided and whilst the drive and walk were very pleasant not a koala was to be found : till we returned towards the "Kaola Cafe" where. a short distance away we found a single koala and lots of tourists with cameras.

Twelve Apostles Trek final day

Our final trip in the van for an easy undulating day, with some kangaroo spotting to entertain us.

The weather was changeable which was a concern as we had a helicopter ride planned for the culmination of the hike, over the actual Twelve Apostles

The end of the trek; in a fine mist of drizzle !

The beach overlooking the Apostles ; quite a stiff walk up and down after the previous days.


Miraculously, the weather suddenly cleared for the helicopter ride...many photos were taken..

Twelve Apostles Trek 2

Our second day's trek was very memorable in that large parts of it were infested with hordes of flies !.They were obviously not a new phenomenon as they had fly nets for us but it was disconcerting and downright unpleasant at times.

It was an undulating 9 mile walk along the coastline and in and out of the bush with the guides a mine of information as to plant life and animal life.Great packed lunch overlooking the coast.

Then back in the minibus back to the lodge.Another convivial dinner with the wine loosening a few tongues and giving us some insights into some of the realities of Aussie mores.

Our third day and the best one.The skies were leaden as we set off but then they cleared with a stiff breeze which kept the flies away.Much of the walking was in Wreck Bay with it's wonderful beach and amazing surf.An eleven mile day by the end.

An anchor from one of the many wrecks along the bay.

Our guide, Immi.

Very poisonous but more concerned with getting back up the slope then us. We became used to scanning the trail for them and they were never a threat.
Our evening concluded with a drive up tp Melba Gully and a walk back into the bush to see some fireflies. pretty atmospheric in  the warm,  dark velvety night as we walked back up through the trail to the van.

The Twelve Apostles Trerk

The Lodge accommodation was a group of low rise wooden cabins in the bush, very upmarket with an emphasis on it's green credentials.

We met our two guides, the rather androgynous "Immi" with a flying fox tattoo on her arm and her fellow guide, young Tim; dreadlocks everywhere!

Our team meet up followed, a bunch of fairly affluent, pretty fit in the main, Oz (apart from one Texan lawyer) professionals.

Our first day's walking was an easy one along Johanna beach, on occasion used for the world surfing championships with the surf as you would expect ; not a beach you would consider swimming in!

Before the off

Back to base for communal foot spas with a snack and a beer, then pilates on our verandah overlooking the bush with amazing bird song echoing through the trees, followed by a sociable dinner.

To Melba Gully near Johanna

It was only a short drive east to the start of the great ocean road. On a blustery day after a visit to the rather Disney-ish port area of Warrnambool we cruised the ocean road which was virtually deserted because of the impact on tourism of the fires.

We stopped along the way at the viewpoints including London Bridge, the Bay of islands, and the arch. The only tourists we saw were Chinese, it being their New Year. We avoided the Twelve Apostles viewpoint as we knew we would be walking to it on our forthcoming trek.

After Port Campbell, the only “town“ along the coast the scenery changed and we climbed up thickly  forested hills to a quirky B&B within walking distance of the Otway National Park in Melba gully and a short drive away from the start of our trek.

After a walk into the Otway National park which reminded us of some of the primeval rainforest in New Zealand, we drove the few miles to Johanna and eventually located our the Twelve Apostles Lodge, our base for the next 3 nights.

Our first walk into very different terrain

Our quirky B&B

To Port Fairy

As mentioned, after a morning tour of the hotel kitchen garden with one of the chefs,

we were back on the road  heading south east towards the coast to Port Fairy and our beach side “Wytonia “ apartment, within yards of the beach and a 30 minute walk of the town.

We had sun and lots of wind whilst we were there so the  beach walking was classic with good shell hunting including  abalone shells to be found.

The local market was entertaining and we ate well in what is allegedly the “happiest town in the world “

Next day we walked across the short istmouth to Griffith  Island, Rather windswept and barren whose main attraction is its wallabies, the first we had seen. Quite unafraid and very cute they were too. The many birds dead for no apparent reason less so.